Ball nut climbing how it works. Tailor your rack to suit each climb.

Ball nut climbing how it works Buy CAMP Ball Nut 3 - High-Quality Climbing Protection from GoSupps. Since they In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some useful advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Great price, fast delivery. Much faster and easier on the rock than banging in a knife blade Jan 6, 2020 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. Title says it really. com – Express International Delivery. Engineered for precision and reliability, this compact protection device is a must-have for any serious climber. They are neat devices but honestly, just grab some micro tricams or regular micro cams. These things replaced all cams around 0. Compare different climbing ball nuts. We really hope you find it useful. M. Specifically thinking about free climbing and understand the placements would easily blow in a whip but . Aug 3, 2023 · Explore the inner workings of a ball nut and understand its role in climbing. Even some micro cams aren't really rated for falls. For free climbing I found it a disaster. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Check which types are most commonly used at your chosen climbing area before you commit to buying a full set. A. TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't #shorts #climbing #gear #adventureHow to stick a Ball Nut in the crack Shop for Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Sep 1, 2025 · Three Ball Climbing. They particularly developed the ice axes. Inside the shell, there is a metal ball that can be pulled up and rotated to help the ballnut fit snugly in the crack. The ball screw assembly consists of a screw and a nut, each with matching helical grooves, and balls which roll between these grooves. Remember to check out our selection Sep 12, 2014 · In 1987, building off of stacked nut designs and modifications by Charlie Porter, Steve Byrne (who patented his design as “Lowe Balls”), Don Best, a designer at Metolius and his own early drawings, John Middendorf invented devices called Monkey Paws that were made up of two wedges and a ball. Ball Nuts also work in pin scars and sm How Does A Ball Screw Work? A ball screw works using a highly precise nut with recirculating ball bearings that rotate around a screw thread. Look for a crack that widens with height: Slot the nut into the wide part and wedge it down into the narrower section—this constriction will hold it in place. Description Introducing the Ball Nut CAMP USA: The ultimate choice for hammerless aid-climbing protection in thin cracks. The Ball Nut are the smallest active protections on the market: excellent for trad and artificial climbing these fit into the cracks and smaller holes. Release the trigger, and opposing forces of the brass ball and aluminum nut holds these tiny pieces of protection in place. The smallest active protection in the world! Color-coded for fast identification Narrow depth fits shallower cracks than traditional camming units For the slim and grim. Here, we’ll focus mostly on the different climbing holds and how to use Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. Rock climbing nuts may not provide the same level of versatile, multi Placing a ball nut into a rock crack. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. No need The Ball Nut are the smallest active protections on the market: excellent for trad and artificial climbing these fit into the cracks and smaller holes. Pincer and spherical grip work is excellent for developing specific, often overlooked strength. All 3 sizes work really well but they're a bugger to get out if you take a whipper on to them. How the Three-Finger Technique Works – Explained with the “Kilimanjaro” Route In this video, we use the "Kilimanjaro" route to show you how the three-finger technique works. They comprise a threaded screw and nut containing ball bearings. For the slim and grim. Ninja Warrior obstacle grips and tools. Jan 19, 2024 · The testicles (also colloquially called “balls,” “nuts” or “cojones”) are two oval shaped glands located within the scrotum, which is a sac (or pouch) of skin that hangs from the body at the front of the abdominal wall, between the legs. By pulling on the handling wire the small sliding wedge is pulled downward, the entire profile thereby contracts and can be slid into narrow rock cracks. Like many things in the climbing community, preference for passive protection is based on what usually amounts to personal opinion. The balls are routed into the nut’s ball return system and travel in a continuous path, moving from the starting point to the end and back again. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Oct 30, 2025 · Ball Nuts - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. Jan 16, 2015 · In reply to Bhealey: I had one before and we tried to get it to work at ground level messing around at the crag one day. 8,820 likes. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally shaped, which together create a ton a versatility Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. 8mm spans via Trango). The safe range on a ballnut is ridiculously small. 75 The Ball Nut are the smallest active protections on the market: excellent for trad and artificial climbing these fit into the cracks and smaller holes. Climbing Tip: Introduction to Ball Nuts Obsession Climbing 12. Invented in 1987 by John Middendorf and initially called Lowe Balls, Ball Nuts are the true secret weapon of climbers on trad and aid routes. Apr 25, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The integrated lanyard makes attaching your climbing rope quick and secure, and it works perfectly with ring-type friction protectors that The Ball Nuts from Camp are slightly modified rock nuts that, when invented in 1987, were a true revolution for traditional climbing. In a typical placement, the ball nut should be placed so the ball starts about 25% of the way up the paddle. Invented in 1987 by John Middendorf and originally brought to market as Lowe Balls, these have become the secret weapon of many aid and trad climbers. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Save on Sets or 10% of 5+ Ball Nutz - instant injection protection for free and aid cracks. This helps you ensure that when the piece is weighted that the ball does not slide so far that it gets maxed out. Does anyone have any input as far as which brand to go for, Trango or Camp. Step by step, you'll learn how to move from grip to grip without setting the ball down. Perhaps I'm being half blind or maybe stupid. Invented in 1987 by Steve Byrne and originally brought to market as Lowe Balls, these have become the secret weapon of many aid and trad climbers Indoor climbing holds come in a variety of different colors, shapes and sizes. They really shine in tiny parallel horizontal cracks that would never hold a nut and are too small for a cam. They work really well in places that are too small for cams, and are a bit easier to place and set than a nut. Oct 28, 2010 · For the slim and grim. Nov 19, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. The same size BallNut feels more solid in this tiny placements and has a much bigger contact area than a micro friend. These pieces of metal of various sizes and shapes are wedged and jammed into crack constrictions by a lead climber, protecting him from the dire effects of a fall as he Ultralight Power Cams From $35. These little wonders will work in small parallel-sided cracks where the only other option is pounding a piton. Sep 18, 2020 · How Ball Screws Work In a ball screw, balls travel through the nut, screw, and grooves when either the screw or nut rotates to produce continuous movement. Ball Nutz by Trango and CAMP are tested in real rock by real dudes. Since they weigh so little, many Here you can find all our climbing nuts. Official brand product. Key Features Ultra-lightweight design for minimal Cams, nuts and slings are used at most climbing areas. When placing a ball nut, retract the ball at least 70% of the way toward the ramp and aim to place it in a place narrow enough that the ball will stop on the ramp at about 30-50%. Since they weigh so little, many advanced trad climbers keep a #2 and #3 on their rack at all times. The key to using ball nuts is anticipating and accommodating for the distance the ball will travel. I know the Camp model has evolved from the original Lowe-Balls, but as to specifics between Product description CAMP USA Ball Nuts are the only choice for hammerless aid-climbing protection in thin, parallel-sided cracks. Simply pull the trigger and securely place the Ball Nut in the crack, leveraging the powerful combination of the brass ball and aluminum nut. Understand the components such as the screw shaft and ball bearings, types like deflectors, end-caps, ground screws, and rolled screws, and advantages of ball screws. If you enjoyed this Hit that Jun 9, 2020 · CAMP USA Ball Nuts are the only choice for hammerless aid-climbing protection in thin, parallel-sided cracks. These nuts feature a sliding ball mechanism that locks against a grooved wedge under load, providing essential protection even in fissures as narrow as 3mm with a breaking strength Climbing gear is really fascinating, and incredibly safe. Click to learn more! A climbing ballnut is a type of passive protection device used in rock climbing. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. A ball screw works similarly, but with much less friction. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. 1 X4 so seemed to fill a gap. The brass ball doesn't make them more of a marginal piece, however it does makes them very prone to get stuck after a big whipper, which is the only downside I see to them. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Here you can find all our climbing nuts. Here’s how it works. Visualize a threaded rod with a nut, but instead of the threads rubbing together, there are ball bearings rolling in grooves on between the rod and the nut. Tailor your rack to suit each climb. Discover how a ball nut functions to provide secure placements and increase efficiency during rock climbing and mountaineering activities. How do climbers protect a fall with our little wired pieces of metal? In this episode I cover the complete basics of nut placement and the thought process behind it. It May 24, 2019 · Nuts, also called chocks, artificial chocks, and micro-nuts, are simple climbing tools that are placed in cracks in a rock surface and then attached to a climbing rope and climber who clips a carabiner or quickdraw onto it. They are comprised of two halves: one half is a paddle and the other is a flat ball which tracks up and down a central groove on the paddle when the trigger is pulled or released. Mar 29, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Improve your grip strength and you'll improve your overall at Oct 29, 2024 · Ball screw advantages include high accuracy, high efficiency, lack of friction, and repeatability, and they bring all this to aerospace, robotics, and machine tool applications. When the going gets thin, pull the trigger and place a Ball Nut in a crack as narrow as 3mm. They broke above MBS when they didn’t come out, and when they didn’t come out, they didn’t want to come out when we wanted Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. Specialized small crack protection with sliding ball-and-ramp for secure fit in parallel-sided cracks where pounding a pin is the only option. Jun 15, 2005 · I'm looking into some Ball-Nuts for addtional placement options, mostly for aid but maybe the occassional free placement as well. When it cinches up in a fall, the ball moves to around 50-70% up the paddle. Left inset: recirculating tube removed showing retainer bracket, loose balls and tube. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. Find the best ball nuts from the two climbing brands that sell them: CAMP and Trango. Aug 8, 2022 · Basically, nuts and hexes work by wedging into a tapered crack. I was going for a headpoint style, practicing the moves and figuring out the gear on toprope before leading. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we have today. However, the primary failure mode for ball nuts is fatigue of the bearing balls or thread surface. Each of these are described below. P. Ball screws are a type of mechanical ball screw linear actuator (or power-transmission screw). Aug 4, 2015 · There are several factors conducive to a ball nut failing prematurely, such as misalignment, impact loading, a lack of lubrication, contamination or external damage to the return circuits. I found it too difficult to use. These are the main types of holds that you find in rock climbing gyms. 2K subscribers Subscribe Apr 5, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. They sometimes become a favourite piece CAMP USA Ball Nuts are the only choice for hammerless aid-climbing protection in thin, parallel-sided cracks. Premature failure may result in the loss of some or all … Continue reading Design Considerations for Ball Never used sliding nuts, but I can imagine the application, and its very specific. I Ball Nuts della Camp sono dadi da roccia leggermente modificati che quando furono inventati, nel 1987, furono una vera rivoluzione per l'arrampicata tradizionale. May 15, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Work like a nut, or in Sep 18, 2009 · For the slim and grim. Much faster and easier on the rock than banging in a knife blade Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. Not usually much use on Snowdonia Rhyolite / weathered sea cliffs. The moving "ball" part seems to be moving the wrong way, for a wedge to work (this is the part I'm probably being stupid with. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts and big bros could be either essential or useless depending on the area. Ball Nuts also work in pin scars and small flares where cams simply won't fit. Using a sliding ball-and-ramp, BallNutz protect small parallel-sided cracks better than any other piece of protection available and they fit where the only other option for pro would be pounding a pin. Ball Nuts, an innovative climbing protection device that utilizes the unique principle of opposing wedges for securing placements in thin parallel cracks where other gear might fail. Geoff. It's this 27mm plastic ball that weighs only 23 grams - super lightweight so you can throw it accurately over high branches. The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. It consists of a small metal shell with a small hole running through it, which can be wedged into narrow cracks or crevices in the rock. By the end of the Second World War the Feb 2, 2024 · These origins and the heavily continued use of passive protection in England today, produce some of the best climbing nuts for trad climbing available today. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Feb 1, 2025 · Rock climbing holds vary in size, texture, color, material, etc. TNUT CLIMBING offers over 500 Australian climbing holds made of resistant polyurethane, all screw-in t-nuts, everything for climbing centres to home climbing wall owners, kids' climbing ramps, affordable bolts, anti-climbing mats, climbing t-shirts Climbing holds made to order in Perth, Western Australia, and most often ready to ship only within a week or two! How to choose the right Jun 13, 2017 · In reply to Lee Harrison: Another vote for ball nuts being great on thin parallel sided cracks - especially clean fractures in quarried faces - slate, limestone etc - where cams are too big. Camp - Ball Nut The right protectors for the grumpiest crevices. At BananaFingers, find C. Ball Nuts also work in pin scars and small flares where even modern micro cams simply won’t fit. Any ball nut tips? It’s the trango number 3 gold one I often buy a single size of pro to test out. With its innovative design, these Ball Nuts are your go-to solution when the cracks are narrow, measuring as little as 3mm. Simply pulling yourself up might not be the wisest choice, since your leg and body positioning play an equally important role in getting you to the top and back down. I thin the best application to for headpointing where you have no other alternative. Measure 1. Climbing Balls target the forearms, flexors and hand-finger coordination essential for climbing. Ball Nuts also work in pin scars and small flares where cams simply won’t fit. If you're using climbing nuts, you'll probably want to purchase a nut tool to help retrieve wedged nuts and stuck cams. Aug 25, 2016 · A few days later, Pam was towing nine-inch cams and Big Bros up wide cracks, and I was stuffing Ball Nuts and RPs into fingertip cracks. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. But playing around I don’t have a great intuition for when it will pop. Invented in 1987 by Steve Byrne and originally brought to market as Lowe Balls, these have become the secret weapon of many aid and trad climbers. Sep 8, 2022 · When to use a climbing nut versus a cam, plus how to place climbing nuts for your safety and confidence on the crag When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Description CAMP Ball Nut: Precision Climbing Protection Elevate your climbing experience with the CAMP Ball Nut, the ultimate solution for narrow cracks and challenging placements. They have the advantages of regular nuts (they can be placed in even the smallest cracks) but thanks to the spring, they The Ball Nuts by CAMP are a revolutionary type of climbing nuts. Maybe for aid but again it takes ages to seat it correctly. But would somone please explain to me how a camp ball nut works. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. • Smallest active pro in the world • For aid and trad climbing • Color coded for quick identification • Strength: 7-8 kN • Weight: 29-71 g Here you can find all our climbing nuts. Compare every detail and find the best price. Works. The smallest active protection in the world! Color-coded for fast identification Narrow depth fits shallower cracks than traditional camming unit A beginners guide to the placement of Nuts, Rocks and Wires for protecting trad rock climbing. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. 88 $43. In fact, these are small marvels that are not afraid of the thinnest cracks with parallel faces, where the only alternative would be to hammer in the nails. When either the screw or nut rotates, the balls travel through the nut, screw, and helical grooves to the ball return system of the nut. Ball nuts are for static weight in aid climbing, not free climbing dynamic falls. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Ball screw Two ball screws, including close-ups of the ball assembly of the top screw. It’s smaller than my 0. Aug 6, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Order now. 3 and below for me. In fact, a lot of these designs have been around since the 80s and 90s, some are even older than that, but they all use similar concepts. Oct 31, 2024 · Our recommendations are here to help you find the best nuts and stoppers while saving time at the computer and keeping more money in your wallet. They are also ideal in "pin Attempt 2 Anyone used ball nuts much? One was really discounted at a shop so I got it but I am curious if it’s often useful. Right inset: closer view of the nut cavity A ball screw (or ballscrew) is a mechanical linear actuator that translates rotational motion to linear motion with little friction. ) Thanks jamesboyle 05 Dec 2008 In reply to Tamati: Jul 15, 2002 · In reply to Woker: Yeah Used to great effect in expanding flakes on South Seas and Zenyatta MOndatta. Like, fractions of millimeters. BallNutz are thin crack protection at its finest. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Compare their sizes on ball nut comparison charts. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. For a beginner figuring out how to climb them might be a daunting challenge. How Do Ball Screws Work? With a regular nut and bolt, turning the nut makes it go up or down the bolt (linear motion). About this item For arborists and tree climbers, this little throw ball is one of those tools that makes your job so much easier. Since they weigh so little, many Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. He and his family produced the gear that helped the Italian soldiers move on the Italian mountains during the First World War. MORE INFORMATION SOON CAMP was born in 1889 in Premana (LC) as founded by the blacksmith Nicola Codega. Absolutely. As for ball nuts, the downside is (aside from the difficulty of cleaning which was mentioned) the usable range. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Ball nuts, used ‘em? I haven’t really to be honest but I could not resist a quick play yesterday! Invented in 1987 by Lowe Alpine (called Lowe Balls) and now made by Camp. hrkpm mas tsejf vdjt rowaih ttodfhk dmg ovsn lawwdh izveid vsbt eplfk ssej rtlbtj taykjv