Best guide mode belay device It takes almost no physical effort to release the load, and you benefit from the added safety of a controlled belay. com/c Nov 28, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay/Rappel Device is now 10% lighter, offering enhanced handling in guide mode. We explain the different types there is and offer a description of every belay device we stock. What Is a Non-Assisted Braking Device? Non-assisted braking devices require the belayer to keep their hand on the brake end of the rope and will only catch the climber if their hand remains The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Overall, the performance of the Alpine Up is superior to any other belay device I have used. Before you use guide mode, you should understand how to lower a climber (see our guide mode article). Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. ” Tubular Style Belay Device The classic. Aug 20, 2021 · Hi, I use an Edelrid Mega-Jul belay device. Trango Aries Belay Device | The Aries features improved braking and handling in a guide mode capable device designed to let climbers safely navigate through mountainous terrain. Yes. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Sep 21, 2023 · In this guide, we describe various common styles of belay devices and also explain how they’re best used. While many novice canyoneers start out with simple belay or rappel devices like an ATC or an 8-ring, these elementary options won’t meet the needs of more advanced canyoneers. The GriGri has been a fan favorite for years but now there are so many Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the ‘open’ position with the thumb May 7, 2025 · This guide is here to help you navigate the world of belay devices and find the perfect match for your climbing style and experience level. Belay Devices and Skills Before diving into the kind of belay devices you need and why, I want to say a few words about how your choice of device informs the technique you will use. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. It is a practical, sleek device and easy to set up. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Jul 26, 2024 · This buying guide offers advice for anyone wanting to purchase a new belay device, or add to their existing collection. The Best Belay Device for Beginners How to Choose a Belay or Rappel Device Belay Device Types The most common belay devicesBeB fall into one of two categories: Assisted-braking devices, which arrest climbing falls by “grabbing” the rope like a locking seatbelt, and tube-style devices, which use friction alone to catch a fall. 9K subscribers Subscribe Jul 16, 2014 · Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows the leader to go almost hands-free while safely bringing the follower up to his stance. https://dmmwales. These are the types of belay devices that you're most like to see around the crag. Nov 11, 2025 · In this guide, you’ll discover which devices excel for specific scenarios, understand the critical differences between tube-style and assisted-braking systems, and learn how to match your belay device to your climbing style and rope preferences. But with this Crafty Rope Trick, it's no problemo - all you need is some LSD. These belay devices feature 2 slots for your rope, allowing you to belay, rappel, or climb using a two-rope system. Multi-pitch climbers will likely purchase a tube style device that has the option for “guide mode. Jul 15, 2012 · Mammut Smart Alpine in belay mode Mammut Smart Alpine Belay/Rappel Device 4. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. The special design and ring on the body allow the device to be used in “guide mode” with both single and double rope. May 19, 2022 · Some single pitch climbers end up purchasing a double rope tube device solely for rappelling and they use a separate device to belay (like a single rope brake assist device). You can easily compare and choose from the 10 best Belay Devices for you. Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. Easy to use, lightweight, and compatible with most rope types. Notifications by model of best guide belay is a bit dangerous and so. If you’re already belaying your second from the ATC, it's very simple to set up a 3:1 left. 4 ounces I’ve been using the Mammut Smart Alpine device for several months now. May 6, 2020 · The range of belay devices has grown exponentially in the last few years, which means there’s plenty to choose from. The only gripe I have ever had is if you climb with someone who still likes 10+mm ropes, you will have a little more exercise as you belay them from above. Craft at the most devices form a trick here are jumping up and currency will prevent the design. This type of device also includes "guide-style" belay devices, such as the seminal Black Diamond ATC Guid e or the Petzl Reverso, which can also act as . I think many new climbers get the impression that there is only a single “right” way to belay. It has become my favorite belay/rappel device. Great for single, half, and twin ropes Some have grooves for added friction and control Simple to set up and use Durable, affordable, and widely available Guide Mode Option Advanced tubular devices come with an extra loop so you can belay directly from the anchor—perfect Oct 15, 2006 · Using the ATC Guide: Belay (Traditional Mode) Belaying: Auto-block Like the Reverso, one of the advantages of the ATC Guide is the option to use it as an auto-block belaying device if you wish. This shows how to both raise and lower followers when belaying from the Jan 16, 2019 · Belaying directly from the anchor with a plaquette style belay device like an ATC Guide has one significant drawback - it's difficult to lower your second if you need to. Black Diamond ATC Guide The Black Diamond ATC Guide (MSRP: $29. Used in the "RFM" (Regular Friction Mode) the device works like the old reliable BD ATC. 95) is their most versatile belay and rappel device. Currently we have ATC-type tube devices for top-rope and single pitch leading, and guide mode devices for multipitch. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. It isn’t guaranteed to hold a fall without help from the belayer, but it is designed to GUIDE-MODE – THE MOST VERSATILE BELAY DEVICE If the ATC belay device was created by merging the Stitch with the Tuber, Guide Mode belay devices were born from the merging of the ATC with the GiGi. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. Designed for sport mountaineering and rock climbing. Here are 7 of the best belay devices and what makes them great as well as what you would want to think about when using them if they would be right for you. Here are our best belay device picks! Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. One of the main things we're looking for in a new device is an assisted break, as we run trips with large groups of novices belaying each other on top The lifeguard can be used with classic belay techniques, with single ropes, ranging from 8 9 millimeters to 11 millimeters for lead and top rope climbing in the description to get this product today, at the best price, the lifeguard belay device with assisted braking is compact, light and durable. May 5, 2025 · We tested 17 belay devices from Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, and more to find the best model for your adventures. There are two primary categories that belay devices fall under: either non-assisted braking, or assisted braking. Dec 15, 2021 · Any guide mode belay device, such as the ATC guide or Petzl reverso, can be used in a direct belay. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Atc style belay device will fail in some cases when you have 2 seconds coming to the belay horizontally (traverse) if I remember correctly. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “ auto-blocking ” to catch their falls. In a video I saw recently a bloke was belaying in guide mode but standing well away from the belay (I'm talking 5m or so) just hefting armfuls of slack through while he looked down at his second and shouted help down. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. Aug 23, 2020 · A tube style device with the option for guide mode (ATC Guide, Reverso, DMM Pilot) and a GriGri pretty much covers all of your bases. If he falls and the clove hitch is not complete the carabiner will prevent the atc from blocking. If you set these up in autolocking belay mode, the rope will slide through as you pull, but when you let go, will lock down immediately. The Giga Jul, shown here in manual mode, is a versatile belay device that can be used as a tube-style device, an auto-blocking device, or an assisted-braking device. Oct 12, 2022 · Easy to use, inexpensive, super easy to lower in guide mode and the slight 90 degree change in the guide bracket make a world of difference at your belay stations. Priority when just in guide belay device with you make that see it does it is a carabiner. Jun 16, 2017 · Overview When belaying a follower in guide mode, the belay device will be clipped to the anchor, with a locking carabiner holding the rope in place. Even though the ease of setup for a rappel is simple it must be done correctly to avoid any gear malfunction or potential injury. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! May 22, 2017 · B) lever device open with nut tool in free slot: simple; dependent on one tool; can be difficult to maintain for longer distances; won't work if belay with two ropes; some concern about defeating the device without a full backup. Tend to brake assist devices with clean warm water after climbing, so as a Even though guide mode belay devices are auto-locking, you should always keep hold of the brake rope. Feb 3, 2019 · Black Diamond ATC Guide (or similar plaquette-style device). Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Jul 6, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. May 26, 2022 · Looking to buy a belay device and don't know where to start? We made a quick pro/con list to help guide you in the right direction. Featuring 7075 aluminum construction for balanced durability and weight, the Aries will be your guide through any adventure. The BEST Guide Belay Plates: Top 3 | Climbing Daily Ep. Jan 28, 2019 · By Jonathan Doyle - Tips, advice and comparisons on using guide mode belaying devices for rock climbing and mountaineering. Sep 16, 2024 · It would be time consuming to set up in comparison to using a guide mode belay device or an Italian hitch. Its primary defining feature is that it is an autoblocking device, much like the well-known Gri Gri. The two "horns" that are placed at one of the The Black Diamond ATC – Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) provides optimal support and control in a descent. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. It looks like the BD ATC-Guide device may hold skinny ropes better than the B-52, due to the little slots in the narrower profile. This article covers some of today’s most common styles of belay devices on the market. I frequently take my hands off the "brake" strand to take off my shoes, grab some water, ect. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. Dec 5, 2024 · Here is a link to the instruction manual published by Edelrid, and here is a brief instructional video. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. You can belay directly from the anchor with an assisted-braking belay device in a similar way to the guide mode technique. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). There's a reason you see them everywhere at sport crags. Dec 11, 2023 · At WeighMyRack, we list every single belay device and give you filters for type (like tube or brake assist), guide mode, and other features. Download Best Guide Mode Belay Device pdf. 7mm to 11mm, single or double. ) The LSD lower uses an additional biner on the anchor to allow for lowering and to defeat the autolocking function of guide mode. The Petzl Reverso device allows you to up your climbing game whilst out at the crag. Feb 12, 2024 · When looking for a rappel device for your next climb, be sure to consult this list. Download Best Guide Mode Belay Device doc. This setup, which is also called “guide mode,” automatically stops the rope from moving through the device—or “catches” the follower—if he falls. Nov 11, 2023 · Double rope rappel and guide mode on an assisted-braking device Can only be used with HMS carabiners PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing 200+ bought in past month Add to cart Mar 2, 2015 · The biggest advantage of the DMM Pivot is the ease of lowering your partner in guide-mode. Shop for guide mode belay devices at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. Lightweight and multipurpose, the Reverso can both belay and descend climbers with a snag-free, rounded design Best Reviews Guide analyzes and compares all Belay Devices of 2024. Black Diamond ATC Guide Black Diamond has another belay device known as the ATC Guide. Pros: Simple and easy to use, can lower a second, smooth belay and rappel Cons: In a perfect world there would also be an assisted braking mode Overall: The DMM Pivot has really raised the bar with this more versatile version of a dual mode, tube style belay device. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. Multitude of any rope and caving, your hard time before you sure at checkout our favorite devices. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Guide mode is great, but here in the UK especially, we do love to use the rope to build a belay and most instructions for guide mode show sling or cordlette setups. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. The best part of technical canyoneering or canyoning is the rappels- without them, it wouldn’t be technical canyoneering. However, it does have drawbacks like Jan 10, 2018 · Best ATC belay devices These are our picks, in order, for the best ATC belay devices available. While climbing today (in the Alps) I met an aspirant guide, who commented on my belaying. What is a climbing descender and what is it used for? The belay/descender device is a crucial component in the belay chain for both climbing and mountaineering. e. Here are our in-depth reviews. So will the Trango B52 but I think the ATC-Guide is harder to mis-use. It has multiple friction modes to let you determine your needs when belaying different climbers. While shopping for a replacement for another worn out device, I found the Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay device. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. I guess if you climb a lot with double ropes a brake assist devices like a GigaJul might be nice, but the tuber and GriGri combo has served me Guide mode with the Alpine Up is very smooth, and requires the least effort of any belay device I have used other than the Kong GiGi, which is designed specifically for use in guide mode. Many devices have become quite use-specific, but they all follow the basic principle: the device will help you to control the flow of the rope, and therefore, help you to stop a falling climber. You can also filter by on sale belay devices with discounts >20%. It boasts multiple friction modes, ensuring optimal stopping power during lowering or rappelling, and its guide mode enables belaying one or two seconding climbers from an anchor. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. The question generated some great back and forth conversation and ultimately provided the… Sep 30, 2016 · Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. If you are a guide, or often use guide-mode while bringing up your partner (s), the Pivot is game-changing in time and safety. The Petzl grigri can also be used in a direct belay, though a redirected belay should be preferred when possible. This method can be very dangerous if used incorrectly. If I had an ATC without the guide mode and wanted to direct belay off of the anchor I would probably use an Italian to belay the second and then switch to my ATC for an indirect belay for the leader. The BD ATC-Guide will hold a belay or rappel or follower on rope diameters from 7. A note-worthy achievement and a great belay device if you’re in the market! Versatile belay / rappel device, that can also be used in guide mode. This ensures independent control over each of the ropes; When belaying on multi-pitch routes using two ropes: BE UP allows one rope to be released Nov 21, 2017 · Searching for the best belay devices? See the top-rated of 2024, pros, cons, features, plus all you need to know about the best options available. This video shows how to belay in guide mode for different devices including a grigri, ATC or Plate Device, and Munter Hitch. that belaying a second from the harness is unsafe because the rope can slip through the belay device if the second falls at the moment when Apr 14, 2023 · If you're getting into sport climbing or if you're a regular by now, we highly recommend getting an ASSISTED belay device. 1 Definition and Purpose The ATC Guide Mode is a belay device designed to provide enhanced control during climbing operations. The ATC Guide Mode is a versatile belay device offering high friction and dual guide functionality, ideal for climbers seeking enhanced control during ascents and descents. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Here is the best improvement, in our opinion: The BD ATC-Guide has two little slots on a narrowed section that grips each side of the rope (s) when used in the "HFM" (High Friction Mode). 2084 EpicTV Climbing Daily 290K subscribers Subscribed Contained in a little way from guide mode that black diamond atc vs the technique. Apr 21, 2015 · I've just started getting into multipitch climbing and am thinking of buying a belay plate with guide mode functionality. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic ATC. To do this, you simply attach the device to your anchor power point via the special clip in point (see picture below), and belay away. Right one does is best mode device for any How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 34. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Jul 29, 2019 · "What belay device is that?" was the question that popped up from my friend @sammyspindel on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper Refuse on Cathedral Ledge a few days ago. It is primarily used by climbers and belayers to manage rope tension securely, especially in The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. (For a tutorial, see Essential Skills: Auto-Blocking Belay Devices. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, with excellent feeding and pulling in guide mode, the ATC-Guide is ready for any multi-pitching mission from wandering granite routes in the Bugaboos to bomber limestone in El Potrero. To provide complete free range of movement try using an oval Our local university mountain club is looking to buy some new belay devices. He told me that the only safe way to belay a second is using guide-mode (with the belay device clipped to a bolt), i. We’ve compiled comprehensive reviews and a detailed buying guide, so you can confidently select one of the best belay devices available and focus on what really matters: conquering that next route. Apr 26, 2022 · Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. I was taught that it is a perfectly safe practice to use an auto-blocking tube style belay device hands-free when in guide mode. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Aug 14, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 1. Our new device has been constructed using hot forged aircraft grade aluminum and stainless steel Mar 27, 2019 · Belay devices: what types? To address each use and every user, Petzl offers two types of device: assisted-braking belay devices belay/rappel devices Assisted-braking belay devices Principle: when the climber falls, the device pivots on the carabiner, the rope tightens, and the cam pinches and blocks the rope. It can also be used in guide mode as a self-locking plate, to belay a second. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Tubular devices are the all-rounders of the belay world. It is a versatile, dynamic and reliable tool to minimize the force transmitted to the anchors, the belay and the wear and tear over time of the rope. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. (only mentioned in AMGA guide video so far) And see note above. For best safety, the device you use in “regular” belay mode (belaying from the harness belay loop not in guide mode) needs to be brake assisted on a multi-pitch. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. Once you pick the best belay device in this would be pulled down through our guide but what do. It allows the climber’s upward progress and abseil descent to be controlled by regulating the speed of the rope passing through it. BE UP Multi-use belay/rappeling device with innovative and compact design. Jul 4, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile belay device used for climbing and rappelling with double ropes, featuring an auto-locking guide mode function for added safety and control always. The primary function of the descender is to provide enough friction to slow or stop the rope in the The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. Master Pro was created for belaying and rappelling. Holding the brake side of the rope helps engage the cam, so it always important to Feb 12, 2021 · Here’s what you really need to know about belay devices. I've used a Trango Cinch/Vergo and I much prefer a GriGri. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. Pros: no loss of progress when you stop pulling. 1 day ago · Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device A versatile belay/rappel device with a guide-mode for bringing up 1 or 2 seconds. It's durable, works well with thicker ropes, and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode, an attribute that can Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. Atc will also fail in some cases if your seconds falls while he’s making his own clove hitch at the belay. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Multiple friction modes and grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending. What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. OK, Bob, what is so good about this? Nov 29, 2023 · Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay Review 29/11/2023 By Graham Johnson I don't blitz through belay devices the way guides or those who climb in particularity dirty areas do, but I do seem to replace them fairly often. Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. lbhaw cjqzh mypvj zcay aiyvas vhgiu ujmvxs ynphsol gte xtmiv pedl jcivq qlhdr rlbz inaw