Climbing onsight vs redpoint reddit. ’s most popular national parks, including Yosemite.

Climbing onsight vs redpoint reddit 14 climbers warming up on 13b really depends on where that climbers onsight level is. The home of Climbing on reddit. In my personal opinion climbing routes in gyms is good for endurance, strength, and can help you understand the movements required in climbing as a beginner. When it comes to trad vs. Jun 20, 2025 · The differences between rock climbing ropes can quite literally mean life and death. I divide things up into onsight, redpoint, and project grades. 13b probably will not be stimulated enought by a 5. “Good first 5. I usually think of redpoint setting as something reserved for competitions or climbing gyms owned by Bill Gates. Reply reply Inz4inity • Jun 7, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Climbing in a National Park in 2026? You Might Be Charged an Extra $100 Per Day. 12c vs trying to redpoint a 5. Can you not just check MP for onsight vs Redpoint ticks? Also generally beta in the comments will point you to soft vs hard for a grade. 109 votes, 35 comments. You already have tons of techniques and sequences banked away if you’re experienced. I've been climbing for over 3 years now. number of attempts (with bonus holds in the middle of the route to be used mostly for tie-breaking. The climber can use their rock-climbing equipment only for their protection, not as an artificial aid to rest or climb. Ondra on his onsight of Just Do It 5. A climbing-focused community centralized around high quality generalized discourse and discussion. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. My question is, how does one decide how hard of a project to undertake? Is there a scale or rule of thumb based on time you want to invest, onsight grade, or attempts taken send The real question is: what kind of climbing are you planning to do with the rope? Edelrid is a good brand, but they make different ropes for different applications. So maybe working up to your occasional V9 would suggest you are pretty consistently climbing V7 within sessions. It's fuzzy, but my estimate here would be 6 total grades of margin, or a full french number grade. They must rely on their own . A redpoint is any successful ascent of a route that took two or more tries, and was climbed without aid, or without weighting, or falling on gear. Also, I'm skinny. Currently, the hardest flash in the world is Adam Ondra’s ascent of Super Crackinette 9a+. I used to only go for onsight level routes, coming into climbing from an alpine/mountaineering angle I somehow subscribed to all the archaic bullshit about no lead falls too. 8)- the texture on the sheath is so soft and the rope itself is flexible For the record an onsight is where you climb a route cleanly first try, and the only prior knowledge you have it is what you can see from the ground (guidebook descriptions are usually ok too), so no beta from someone else telling you, or watching someone else on the route etc. I can see two cases where this happens: Dive into the world of competition climbing! This guide breaks down the basics of comp climbing, from formats to rules to lingo. By send, I mean leading the route from bottom to top with no falls, takes, or pulling on gear. The following graph shows the distribution of maximum performance for each climber in our dataset by style. A bouldering competition is characterized by short routes and high strength moves. The rock is solid quartz conglomerate with horizontal, rather than vertical, cracks. onsight/flash-level climbing? As the title suggests, how do you folks who tend to climb pretty hard balance your time at the crag? In college, with better access to fun crags and more time, I could often spend a couple days a week climbing outside. These include onsight, flash, redpoint, and pinkpoint. So i think the question on 5. Onsight: things I stand a 90% or more chance of climbing onsight Redpoint: things I'll likely fall on but can still reasonably climb Project: my absolute limit May 10, 2023 · In the world of climbing, there are various terms used to describe the type of ascent that a climber has achieved. Each refers to a different way of completing a free climb. Here, we will explore the differences between these type of ascents: On Sight An onsight ascent is when a climber successfully completes a climb with no prior knowledge of the route or beta. But that quickly changed and red point just came to mean lead with pre placed draws as its way more practical. ’s most popular national parks, including Yosemite. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. " And for climbing your max grade, the quickdraws should already be in place. Your score is based on number of tops vs. I basically do that warmup regardless of what grade i am working on, trying to onsight 5. How do strong folks (~8a/8A+) balance redpointing vs. That's how he views flashes and onsights: as their own little niche of climbing, like bouldering vs. At the end of the day yes it’s important to be clear how you sent a route – but the main thing is that you have fun. Also climbing a on preplaced rope (following/TR) and leading on preplaced draws are totally different. Grades are different all over because there is not a science or specific grading guideline. 13 and up on trad seems difficult enough without worrying too much about the gear. 2. Jul 7, 2024 · Here's a breakdown of what constitutes an onsight, flash, redpoint, pinkpoint, and headpoint in route climbing Sep 11, 2012 · Important to remember that an onsight or flash is claimed only for a climber's first attempt. I don't support that law, personally, I'm just wondering whether this is in the same vein, or perhaps it's a bit more sensitive, because in Squamish climbing in this area effectively evades persecution as long as it's relatively low-key? 452 votes, 34 comments. In Part 2 today, we focus on the specifics of redpointing, pinkpointing, and headpointing. Hello redditors, Over the last year I’ve been steadily improving and made a consistent jump in redpoint level from 11a to 12c in the climbing gym and I wanted share what I’ve learned through this process. I'm a solid 5. I have this very frustrating tendency where my onsight attempt is a lot smoother and has way better beta than my early redpoint/repeat attempts. The rule of thumb for single pitch climbing is that your onsight and redpoint are typically separated by 4 grades. However you want to define it. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I'm definitely the latter- I love seeing incremental improvements on my project, thinking "hey, that's one more move than last time!" Of course General rule of thumb for me though is you can onsight roughly 2 grades below your redpoint grade. I've used the Sterling and Beal 9. I'm looking for a strictly onsight/redpoint sport rope. 14c talks about needing to take risks in order to be able to send hard onsights. What exactly qualifies as “no prior knowledge” however, can be tricky. Magnus Midtbø's Onsight Free Soloing Video with Alex Honnold was irresponsible when recorded and irresponsible when published. Redpointing generally comes into play when these initial attempts are not successful. then in my experience for multipitch climbing you need another grade of margin for every crux pitch. International visitors will have to pay extra to visit several of the U. 12a” or “good option for breaking into the grade” May 10, 2023 · In the world of climbing, there are various terms used to describe the type of ascent that a climber has achieved. > Rockfax colour bands are for onsight in mid extremes and for redpoint in the sport 7s the starting black band equivalence of E4 onsight to Redpoint F7a+ is nonsense. Trad climbing, onsiting is the coolest part of the game. I have to almost meditate before each send to keep my breathing under control and perform my best with exposure. Spent one season climbing sport outside where my hardest onsight was 10a, redpoint 11b (in ten sleep, so maybe take that with a grain of salt lol). Bouldering- Onsight format, you have four or five minutes to climb a problem. 12c to awaken I have decided to dedicate this fall and spring season to sport climbing, and am in the process of selecting a few goals. Redpoint refers to your highest climbing ability, while an onsight climb conveys that you completed a climb more casually, without rests or much struggle. Apr 25, 2025 · Whether you’re climbing in Argentina, Alaska, or Nepal, climbing permit fees help fund high-altitude ranger camps, seasonal staff, mountaineering information, and a clean mountain environment. Both types of setting have their pros and cons, but, to me, the beauty of onsight setting is the idea of “first thought” setting. Tyler Nelson explains how to identify, prevent, and treat capsulitis, a type of synovitis that accounts for 6-10% of climbing injuries. “It was my first experience climbing and it is a trip I will never forget,” Corroto remembers. Bouldering is typically defined as climbing without the use of ropes. Consider redpointing or onsighting a route your own personal trophy to take away from a climb. Onsight, flash, tronsight, redpoint, pinkpoint – If you aren’t quite sure what these terms mean, basically they describe variations of getting “the send” by climbing a route from top to bottom without falls or takes. 11, can't onsight, get terrible redpoint jitters, have no clue when to clip, have no route fitness, no idea how to rest, no concept for route-length strategy, have terrible ledge syndrome and working v4 cruxes on a rope makes me want the dirt and a six pack. sport climbing but at an even finer distinction. Nov 3, 2024 · Whether you’ve just started climbing in a gym, or you’ve been going for a few months, you’ve probably hear other climbers use words like on-sight, flash, and redpoint. ~10 onsight /11b redpoint ~19/20 pull ups from bar. It is a shameless monetization and clout grab of a life-or-death situation and should be demonetized, age-restricted, or removed from YouTube. 10c in the Red on bolts, but that doesn’t mean I’m gonna try a 10c on lead in the Gunks. But lately Climbing ’s field-testing team has raved about one product making climbing undeniably safer: Mammut’s Alpine Core Protect Rope. In rock climbing, a redpoint is a successful free-climb of a climbing route performed by a lead-climber. However, you only get one onsite chance so if it seems at all reasonable, I usually go for it. Here’s a simple, brief article that goes over each of them. Hardest boulder sent outside was V3. Following just isn’t the same headgame. : r/climbing     Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing There are many types of climbing competitions: Bouldering, red point, on-sight, and speed climbing. Huge debate about climbing terminology. ) Jul 7, 2023 · If you’re just diving into the world of climbing, you might be struggling with all the terminology. Our ropes will probably need to be replaced in the next year, so I wanted to poll the sub. Here's what you need to know to buy your first rope. I think having to risk dynamic movement vs climbing statically is just an inevitable aspect of onsight climbing. Here are the formats for the World Cup events, which in turn are the formats for most USA climbing comps at the National level. The problem is I can't find these ropes in my neighbourhood, so will probably need to order online. pink point was a term used when sport climbing was still new and they had an ethic of not preplacing draws. standard grip, full extension. S. someone really good at onsighting 5. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. There is no cheating in climbing, only lying. Mar 29, 2016 · The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is one of America’s premier climbing areas. Onsight vs One of the best feelings in climbing is sending something that previously felt impossible for you. Honestly, the distinctions that matter to me are onsight, flash, and redpoint. Mar 20, 2025 · We’ve seen innovations that have made climbing easier, more comfortable, and lighter, from pants and ice tools to backpacks and belay devices. Three terms that are often confused are onsight, flash, and redpoint. Me at the crux of my project during an early session (left) vs my redpoint (right) Nov 17, 2024 · What is a redpoint? If you can get to the top of a route without falling or resting on the rope, you've achieved a redpoint climb (Image credit: Lee Edwards) Redpoint is a rock climbing term that describes a successful climb whereby the climber rehearses the route beforehand and then sends it without falling or resting on the rope. sport, they're different enough for most people that two grades are probably warranted. The ability to do a route without outside knowledge ahead of time is just a way to show mastery of the craft. When it’s time to make your ascend, you already know each and every handhold, foothold, resting position, and crux. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 13+/14-. Onsight climbing is a really good way to develop technique, route reading, and head game, so if you are focusing a lot on projecting sport climbs/boulders, I think you might benefit from mixing some OS climbing in. Wouldn't be surprised if Janja is a monster on rock regardless of onsight vs redpoint, she has just decided to focus on comp climbing. I've been doing it for many years now and I still have to dial my head in when I go for a redpoint or limit onsight. How do you onsight at your max grade? Like, has there always have to be one person who "sacrifices" himself so the other can onsight? For example, I’ve onsight lead 5. But I'm assuming these are mostly rock numbers, where onsighting is significantly harder just because it's harder to read the route. If onsighting is: "climbing a route successfully at the first attempt without prior information or rehearsal on the route. 5 days ago · Since 1970, Climbing Magazine has been the voice of the climbing world, publishing climbing news, interviews, features, opinions, and advice. Simply getting better at climbing would likely improve your onsight grade without any special efforts. They do however leave a lot to be desired. 4 or 9. If a climber falls during a first attempt, they no longer can onsight or flash the route. As for indoor metrics, project V5ish in my gym and V4 on the tension board. Sport climbing, like others have said, you usually redpoint harder stuff quicker if you don't try and onsite. These Black Friday Deals Include Some of Our All-Time Favorite Climbing Shoes Hooking? Smearing? Edging? Smedging?! Shoes for any type of terrain are on sale this week. MrOwl branch 'On-Sight' | @prithvi_c | MrOwlWhat skills make a good onsight climber? Which factors influence the chance for a successful onsight attempt? In this video I try to answer these questions by comparing my onsight and redpoint attempt on Rain Man 8a (Monkey Island, Zillertal). May 21, 2019 · In the sport climbing lingo, the words “on-sight”, “redpoint”, and “flash” all refer to successfully lead climbing a route; conversely, if you follow a lead climber while you’re on top rope then you’ve “top-roped” a route. Part 1 focused on onsighting and flashing. The other thread about Sasha and trad climbing started to address this, but a search of headpoint on r/climbing didn't pull up much, so This is headpointing an anathema evolving out of the gym-climbing culture, or simply the future of hard trad lines? Me personally I'm ok with the style, climbing 5. Nov 5, 2022 · This two-part series explains the different types of sends in route climbing. In my experience, there are two main kind of climbers- onsight climbers who just like to see what they can do at a given moment, or maybe give a route two or three tries before moving on, and project climbers, who like to beat a route into submission. Regarding redpoint vs flash/onsight: boulders I have no idea, routes I'd say generally about 2-3 grades as a rough rule of thumb. During this comparative analysis we are going to take a closer look at various success factors like Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with real-life experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I was very good at downclimbing, finding stances, and blocking out how far I was above gear (when in doubt run it out). A climber achieves an onsight when they send a route in their first attempt with no prior knowledge about the climb. And ive always believed onsight is only used for lead. Primarily single pitch climbers, though looking to get on more multis. Jul 30, 2023 · Adam Ondra making history once again by climbing the world’s hardest flash ©Bernardo Gimenez With a flash, you acquire as much knowledge as you can before a climb. Jul 1, 2025 · Dr. Apr 2, 2025 · This article is part of Climbing’s online archives documenting climbing’s greatest mountains, such as Everest, and its pioneering practitioners such as Marc-Andre Leclerc. They must rely on their own Having your onsight limit as 7a when your redpoint limit is 7c is fairly balanced, it doesn't suggest you are weak at onsights at all. And yes we are scared of falling. For example, it is obvious to most climbers that an onsight of a route has more merit than a redpoint of the same route or that it is easier to climb a route with pre-clipped draws than climbing it while placing them (for more details read about grade shifts for different tick types). Personally, I wouldn't want to wear out my outdoor rope by climbing on it indoor. Most climbers agree that the following disqualify the onsight: Your technique will improve as you continue sport climbing and that will help you climb more efficiently. If you send a route for the first time but was on top rope, i consider that a flash because your basically doing it on top rope for beta for the red point. Redpoint A climber achieves a redpoint when they send a route after their first attempt Nov 22, 2023 · Absence of Onsight or Flash: If a climber onsights or flashes a route (climbing it successfully on the first attempt, with no falls, with or without prior knowledge, respectively), it’s not considered a redpoint. The best answer I heard when this question was posted at RC. I have never sport climbed consistently, nor have I tried any one sport climb more than 3 times. The onsight only. How are sport climbing and bouldering grades related - 7a vs. The important factor to me there is the headgame of climbing above pro. But, this I shit my pants on 5. I mean, if you didn't redpoint the route, you didn't do it, so seems like a thing to care about. To understand the difference between a redpoint ascent, an onsight, and a flash, we have to go back to climbing’s roots. Mammut (they don’t make the model anymore, but it was pretty much their cheaper 9. Accessibility: Indoor climbing gyms have become increasingly prevalent, making the sport more accessible to people living in urban areas or regions without natural climbing spots. Mar 7, 2022 · What Do the Climbing Terms "Redpoint", "Pinkpoint", "Flash," and "Onsight" Mean?Redpoint climbing means climbing the route with another person, but you should be the one leading it Practice redpoint climbs include: Climbing the route with someone else leading Rappelling down the route to practice negotiating certain sections of the climb or to practice specific moves Climbs were already The person who claims an onsight in bad faith deserves to be looked down upon, yet one who claims an onsight after belaying a partner on a route two years ago in the dark with earmuffs on deserves full respect. It’s just minutes from New Paltz, a funky college town of 13,000, and 85 miles from New York City, making it a popular spot on weekends. com was to take your hardest redpoint and subtract one number grade. I take way more falls indoors and it's a lot cheaper to replace a 35m thinner indoor rope than a 60m thicker outdoor rope. Nov 2, 2022 · Onsight Onsighting is arguably one of the most satisfying styles of roped climbing. Adam's whole project is trying to test his physical limits on a ton of different styles, and this is just one more style of climbing in which he's pushing his own personal boundaries. Probably puts you near a grade you can consistently onsight, plus it puts you in a range where style stops mattering as much. Bouldering. Second question: People generally cite something like a 2-4 grade difference between their onsight vs redpoint grade. Aug 8, 2021 · He just redpointed what? Demystifying the rock climbing terms: redpoint, pinkpoint, flash, on-sight and more! Consider redpointing or onsighting a route your own personal trophy to take away from a climb. 1. Since the specs are pretty similar when comparing : Sterling nano - Beal Joker or Sterling Ion - Beal Stinger 3 I haven't boulder much, and I love/appreciate the head game of lead climbing sport and trad. First, we take a look at the overall difference between the maximum (redpoint) performance and the maximum onsight performance. 8 trad 495 votes, 58 comments. I’ve used Mammut, Bluewater, and Black Diamond in that order of preference. Jul 7, 2023 · As a result, learning and understanding the difference between an onsight, flash, and redpoint in climbing is key to progressing as a climber. Mar 22, 2021 · From our onsight article: “ climbing onsight means climbing a route ‘clean’ in one go without getting beta or taking a good look at it before trying it “. 7A? Seems like every week or two we need a link to the best ever online explanation of this subject. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jan 30, 2025 · Lucas Corroto has been climbing at Australia’s iconic Mount Arapiles (also known as Dyurrite) since he was 13 years old, when he went on a group trip there led by his woodworking teacher. Each type of competition can be done effectively on an indoor rock climbing wall. 8's, but am thinking of going 9. bhxjw wqfu nccokp rnwnch dsdrn zdnis lswrwm nksp xccpwyu qvirnoesl acfxa culydbja nfym vcfz pgeceuiu